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Get Yardcare Advice for Your Canadian Region
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Frequently Asked Questions for the Canadian West Coast
by
Brian Minter
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- How do I control moss in my lawn? The best solution is a long term process of great lawn care. In fall and spring when the soil is soft from fall and winter rains, aerate and follow this by applying a 3/8 inch layer of coarse sand to provide great drainage. To keep the soil from becoming too acidic, a condition moss loves, apply quality lime in the fall. Moss also loves low fertility, so it’s very important to apply a quality slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in spring, summer and fall to give your grass good vigor and colour.
- When do I prune flowering shrubs? One of the most crucial issues is keeping your plants compact and looking attractive while being able to enjoy optimum flowering. Whether flowering shrubs bloom on this year’s growth or on last year’s more mature stems, as a safety measure, always prune just after flowering. Most shrubs flower from early spring through mid-summer and pruning just after flowering ensures lots of new growth to achieve a full and bushy plant while still allowing the growth to mature and produce plenty of flowers next season. For some specific old wood flowering plants, like viburnum ‘Pink Dawn’ and Chinese witch hazel (Hamamelis), either prune higher to leave more mature wood or prune out half of the old wood down low, leaving the other half to bloom fully while letting the new growth mature for next year. By adding a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and high potash fertilizer, like 4-10-10, you will help new growth to mature more quickly.
- When can I prune evergreens? For most coniferous plants, like cedars, cypress and, junipers, you really can prune anytime of the year, although the two best times would be in late winter just before the new growth begins or in early July during their brief summer dormancy. Try and stay within new growth to prevent the plant looking chopped and woody. The exceptions are pine, spruce and fir which produce new growth via candles or buds and are generally pruned just after the new growth develops in late March or early June. This allows these plants time to develop new candles and buds for next year. It is best to feed them with a slow release, high nitrogen fertilizer after pruning to get good colour and lush new growth.
- Why am I having trouble getting my rhododendrons to set bud each year? It’s important to understand that rhododendrons are quite versatile. Large leaved varieties will tolerate more shade and smaller leaved varieties perform better in more sunlight. Rhododendron growers plant all their varieties out in full sun and with proper culture practices, they enjoy more compact plants that are generally full of buds. Rhododendrons prefer a well-drained location with some mulching to protect their shallow roots from summer heat and winter freezing. If you prune immediately after flowering, by pruning out only the long, lanky shoots and if you carefully pick off the blossom trusses, you should enjoy lots of buds next year. To ensure a great bud set, feed your rhododendrons with a quality rhododendron food (one low in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potash) just before flowering. A little secret I learned from a good rhododendron grower was to use the correct amount (follow the instructions) of sulphate of potash (0-0-50) around the drip line of rhododendrons. Good drainage, the right location for the leaf size and proper nutrients will make a huge difference in the blooming capacity of your rhododendrons.
- When is the best time to start a vegetable garden? Depending on the area in which you live, you can start as early as February or as late as May. In coastal areas, once it is dry enough to work the soil in the ground or in raised beds, you can begin planting cool loving varieties. Spanish onions, peas and broad beans could be planted early as long as you have either Remay cloth or ready made cloches to protect them from light frosts. With protection, even transplants of lettuce, Swiss chard and early brassicas can be set out early. The general rule is that the time to set out most garden vegetables is when soil temperatures are consistently 50°F. (raised beds achieve this warmth earlier). The exception to this rule are heat loving vegetables and herbs, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, squash and basil, which should only be put out in May or mid-June when warm temperatures are more consistent. Late maturing winter crops (parsnips, kale and Brussels sprouts) should be set out in mid to late June for maturing just before the fall frosts improve the flavour.
- Is there a secret for the care of hanging baskets? One of the most important considerations is when they can go outside. Over the years, we have learned that the very best time to set out hanging baskets is in late May when the weather is warm and stays warm, especially at night. Setting baskets out too early often sets them back, and they take a long time to recover. Watering and feeding are the essential ingredients for success. Water only when the baskets become dry and the best way to tell when it’s dry is by gently lifting the bottom to feel the weight. When the basket feels light, water it. When the basket feels heavy, leave it be until it begins to feel light. When you water, water very thoroughly with a ‘soft rain’ nozzle that distributes water gently and evenly. Also, for thorough saturation, water until the basket begins to drip out of the bottom. After watering, feed immediately with a soluble balanced fertilizer, like 20-20-20, early on. Later use a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and high potash fertilizer, like 0-10-10, for bloom production. In addition, it’s important to add slow release fertilizer, like 14-14-14, to ensure continuous feeding. Be sure to pick off all spent blossoms to increase plant vigour.
- I’m confused about roses. When and how do I prune them? To keep it simple and easy, always wait until after the last hard frost to prune, even though leaves may already have appeared. As a rule of thumb: all modern roses, floribundas, hybrid teas and grandifloras should be pruned low each year (12 to 18 inches), leaving four or five of the newest and healthiest canes. This keeps the bushes low and encourages renewal each year. Get rid of any diseased and dead wood. On climbers, because they generally bloom best on two year old wood, save four to five healthy canes (four, six or eight feet long) and prune out everything else. Spread these canes out along the trellis or arbor for great results. Shrub and ground cover roses are generally pruned back one-third to one-half each year to produce very full and continuous blooming plants. Always take out any dead or diseased wood. As a rule of thumb, antique roses are generally cleaned up, thinned out and cut back about one-third. When thinning, clean out old dead and diseased branches to produce good shaping and encourage new vigour.
- How do I prune clematis for blooms? Very simply. Clematis pruning is all about when they bloom. Early blooming varieties, ones that bloom until early July, generally bloom on old wood and as such, should not be pruned but left to ramble. Many species varieties and the ‘montana’ family fall into this category. They can, however, be pruned after flowering, if necessary, for blooms the next year. Late blooming varieties, ones that bloom through the summer, generally bloom on new wood and can be pruned hard after flowering in the fall or early spring to keep them controlled and looking fresh and new. Some clematis bloom early and bloom again later in the season. To optimize the flowering of these varieties, prune them back about one-third in late summer or fall or in early spring. As with all vines, it’s important to keep them looking clean and tidy all year.
- When is the best time to set out annuals? After a long, wet or cold winter, we all look forward to early colour, and some annuals and tender perennials will tolerate light frosts and still provide good colour. Violas, pansies, Dusty Miller and the new English daisies are, perhaps, among the very best for cool, early colour. As the temperatures warm up, alyssum, ageratum, lobelia, dianthus, snapdragons and even petunias will really enhance the colour pallet. You will need lots of heat, however, to enjoy the fabulous colours of begonias, impatiens, zinnias, coleus, portulaca, marigolds, gazanias and geraniums. When to set out annual colour is a matter of ground and night temperatures.
- I seeded quite a few perennials this spring and did not get any flowers. Why? Most perennials grown from seed require a cool winter period to enable them to bloom. This is called ‘vernalization’. A growing number of varieties, however, do not need vernalization and will bloom the same summer from an early seeding. Achillea, coreopsis, leucanthemum, gaillardia, Gallery lupins and Guardian delphiniums will produce beautiful summer blooms if seeded in early spring.
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