Yardcare Tips for the Northwestern Region by  Marianne Binetti

Out Smarting Lawn Weeds - Naturally
If you are starting a new lawn, there are some simple steps to take in the beginning that will give you a big advantage in the weed wars.

1. Be picky about the topsoil you bring in for a
   new lawn
   When you buy topsoil, some weed seeds are inevitable, but topsoil made from heated compost will have been heated high enough to kill a majority of the weed seeds.
   
   
2. Use quality grass seed
   The more expensive grass seed mixes will not only contain patented, named seed varieties but will have less weed seeds as well. Learn to read the back of the seed package. It will state the percent of weed seeds in the seed mix.
   
   
3. Sow seeds thickly to leave little room for weeds to grow
   Save seeds from the package to use after the first sowing has germinated. Then you can reseed over the thin spots once you see how well the seed is germinating.
   
   
4. In our area, a lawn seeded in the fall will have fewer weeds popping up than a lawn seeded in the spring
   This is because some weed seeds need warm weather to germinate. When you seed in the fall, the new lawn will be thick enough to crowd out weeds before the warm weather of summer arrives.
   
   
5. Don't scalp the lawn, but keep the lawn mowed regularly
   Then the weeds that do sprout can't grow tall enough to flower and go to seed.
   
   
6. Once the lawn is well established, water only when the ground is dry
   Keeping the soil constantly moist allows weeds such as moss, buttercup and veronica to move into the lawn. Plan on giving your lawn one inch of water a week when it doesn't rain.

The Low Maintenance Lawn
You can make your life easier by giving up the impossible quest for a perfect lawn. Instead, aim for a lawn that is green and healthy and ignore a few weeds. You'll save time and money by accepting a "good enough" lawn.

5 Keys to the Good-Enough Lawn:

1. During dry weather, water once a week, but water deep.
2. Improve your soil with an organic-based, slow-release nitrogen lawn food.
3. If you only want to fertilize once a year, do it in the fall.
4. Mow high, letting grass grow to 3 inches. Then only remove one third of the grass blade.
5. Leave grass clippings on the soil. They will decay to become a source of free fertilizer.

Renovating an Old Lawn
April/May and the month of September are the best times to renovate an old lawn. This is also the time to deal with moss and level off uneven playing fields. If your field of dreams looks more like the lawn of nightmares, this may be your year for turf wars

Planting a New Lawn on Top of an Old Lawn

•	First, aerate the old lawn by renting a core aerator to poke holes all over the old turf.
•	Mow the old lawn as short as possible to cut the tops off of spring weeds.
•	If your lawn has lots of low spots or drains poorly, rake two inches of sand in those areas to level the lawn.
•	Now is the important part. You need to spread an organic based fertilizer first and then at least 2 inches of good topsoil or compost right on top of the old lawn. More and more companies are making an organic based lawn food as we realize the dangers of quick release chemical nitrogen. Look for slow release nitrogen from Lily Miller, Ringer, Safer and Whitney Farms brand of fertilizer.
•	Rake and level the new topsoil and then sprinkle a Northwest mix of lawn seed, making sure to choose a mixture with the improved patented lawn seed varieties. Do not use a single type of grass such as all blue grass or all bent grass.
•	You'll not only be mowing by May, but the spring rains will do the watering for you, the old lawn will push up through the soil layer that will smother most of the weeds, and by using organic based lawn foods, the earthworms will return and help do the work of aerating and feeding your new turf.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How often should I mow my lawn?
   Mow once every five to six days depending on the weather. The goal is to never remove more than one third of the grass blade. Here in the Pacific Northwest, we can allow the grass grow three inches tall before mowing. Just say "No" to the low mow. A taller cut helps shade out weeds and also shades the soil to conserve moisture.
   
   
2. It always seems to rain on my day off and I find it difficult to mow as often as I should. What should I do if the grass gets taller than I like?
   Don't go on the warpath and scalp your lawn just because you had to skip a few mowings. Raise the height of the mower instead so that you still remove only one third of the grass blade. Then in a few days try to mow again so that you gradually shorten the grass blades.
   
   
3. How often do I need to fertilize my lawn?
   Twice a year is perfect if you choose a slow-release or organic lawn food. Fertilize in September and in mid May. Over fertilized lawns may be dark green, but this a sign of weaker growth that is more prone to disease. If you prefer to fertilize just once a year, feed in the fall.
   
   
4. I don't want to use chemical weed killers such as the stuff found in weed and feed. What can I do to keep the weeds out of my lawn?
   A thick, healthy lawn can crowd out weeds. Avoid scalping the lawn, as mowing too short allows weeds to wiggle in. Aim to keep your grass blades between two and three inches tall, mowing regularly so that you cut the blades, not the stems of the grass. Water deeply, but infrequently. Let the soil dry out between watering so that shallow rooted weeds will die out.
   
   Overseed a thin lawn to thicken it up and crowd out weeds. Aerate or poke holes into your turf. Clover and dandelions are just two of the weeds that grow in compacted soil. Fertilize each fall and spring with a slow release organic based fertilizer that will improve your soil. Finally, hand dig the worst of the weeds but learn to accept a little variety in the lawn.
   
   
5. What can I do about the dandelions in my lawn?
   Well, you could have them for dinner. All parts of the dandelion are edible, as long as they have not been treated with any chemicals. This common lawn weed is actually easy to control. You can dig them out with a screwdriver, sprinkling a handful of lawn seed in the bare spot left behind. Broad leaf weed killers made especially for the lawn are also effective against dandelions. If you use a chemical control, try to treat just the weeds in certain spots rather than spreading weed killer over the entire lawn. This way you will be using less herbicide and minimize the risk of damage to your other plants.
   
   
6. What can I do about moss in my lawn?
   Moss is an opportunist. It moves in when there is too much shade, poor fertility or too much moisture for the grass to grow thick and healthy. Limb up shade casting tree branches to let in more light, aerate, then add a thin (half inch) sand layer to improve drainage. Fertilize your lawn in the fall and again in the spring using a lawn food containing moss control. Remember that some deeply shaded or moist areas just won't be able to support a lawn. Give up and enjoy a moss lawn or plant shade tolerant groundcovers such as ajuga, lamium or pachysandra instead. On the coast, plentiful rainfall means the soil is naturally acid which encourages moss. Apply dolomite lime once a year to help sweeten the soil.
   
   
7. Help! My summer water bills are drowning me! How often do I really need to water my lawn?
   Your lawn would like to get at least one inch of water each week. Just wait until the soil is actually dry before you water. On the rainy coast, this means you may need to water only once a week during the dry months of August and September, and let the rain do the job the rest of the year. Inland, or on the East Side of the coastal mountain range, hot, dry summers mean you may need to water every three to four days. Hand watering with a hose is never effective. You need to soak the top 6 inches of the soil. A good way to check this is to crack open the soil with a shovel and see how far down the water has penetrated.
   
   You can always decide to let your lawn go dormant during the driest time of the year. It may look brown, but will green up again when the rains return.
   
   
8. When is the best time of day to water?
   In the Pacific Northwest, morning is the best time to water your lawn. Our cool summer nights invite disease problems on lawns that are watered in the evening or at night.
   
   
9. What type of grass seed should I buy?
   Choose a grass seed brand that contains a mixture of named patented grass varieties. If your lawn is in the shade, use a mixture formulated for the shade. Areas that will get heavy use should be seeded with a playground mix. The important point is that the mix contain several grass varieties - such as a perennial rye/fine fescue mixture and that the mix is specific for your area. Planting a lawn of all bluegrass or all bent grass is not a good idea.
   
   
10. I've seen mail order ads for drought resistant Zoysia grass that rarely needs mowing. Will this type of grass do well in the Pacific Northwest?
    No! Zoysia grass, Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass are all warm season grasses that will not grow well in the Pacific Northwest.